Morning people, I applaud you. Kayla & I thought that we would have a fairly easy week since it was a break from school, but that didn’t quite happen. We were able to confirm plans to go to Lilongwe for the weekend; but they included getting up at 5 in the morning to catch the bus on time. I can hear some of you groaning right along with me. You morning people, though, you’re probably like, “That’s the best time to be awake!”
We tried to get to bed early Wednesday night because we had to be up so early Thursday morning. We had no electricity so the coffee we had hoped to drink to wake us up didn’t happen. We loaded up around 6 and went to the bus station. It was running a little late and didn’t arrive until 6:40; but we got moving fairly quickly once we loaded up. Kayla and I were glad to be taking a coach bus rather than a minibus or taxi. There were only about 10 people, though, and I wondered at why they would still go with such a small group of people; especially with the fuel shortages lately. I didn’t have to wonder for long because we had a second stop in Blantyre where the rest of the passengers got on. We didn’t realize that there were 2 stops before heading out of town, but I was glad that the bus was actually full for the trip.
We were told that it should only take about 4 hours to get from Blantyre to Lilongwe, but I don’t really know where they came up with that number. Once we actually got going, it was about 7am and we didn’t pull into our stop until a little after 12pm. Overall, it was a nice ride – we got snacks & drinks (always nice to get unexpected treats!) – and they had a movie and music videos to watch if you wanted.
We were picked up by Edith Kunje, the daughter to Pastor Kunje. She works in a building next to where we were dropped off and we were able to have lunch with her and her sister, Monica, before going to check-in at our lodge. Kayla & I were surprised to end up in a shopping center very similar to what we would find at home with eateries, clothing stores, groceries and other local businesses all in one place. I was also entertained by the sports channel in the restaurant where we ate – they were showing NASCAR races – definitely not something I expected to see in Malawi!
In the US, all the areas, towns, suburbs, etc. have names, but in Lilongwe it is a little bit different. Each area just has a number. I felt like I was in a sci-fi movie as we headed to ‘Area 18’ to go to our lodge; I’m just glad it wasn’t ‘Area 51’. J We asked how many areas there were but the only answer we received was, “There are many”. Some areas are even divided into ‘Sectors’, which are also numbered; oh yeah, most of their roads don’t have names either. Let’s just say I’m glad it wasn’t up to me to figure out where we were going cause I would’ve probably gotten us lost!
When we arrived at our lodge, a gentleman came out to help us with our bag and Kayla and I both thought he was a worker at the lodge. It wasn’t until we were in our room and Edith introduced us to him that we realized he, Bongani, was one of the church members! (oops!) He was our guide for the weekend and we had a lot of fun getting to know him and asking him questions about Lilongwe & Malawi. It was also nice to have someone with us that spoke Chichewa so he could keep the random people from following & bothering us as we walked around the city. J
After we were settled into our room, Bongani took us to meet Pastor Nkosi in town before taking us on a walking tour of Lilongwe’s ‘Old Town’ (which, to us, isn’t all that old; it’s been around since the 1940s). Bongani is in his early thirties, but he definitely knows a lot of people throughout the city. There wasn’t an area we walked to all weekend that he didn’t stop and greet someone that he knew, whether from childhood, school or work. Though I didn’t mind walking, I was definitely glad when we caught a minibus home (well, really 3 minibuses by the time we actually got to the lodge).
It had been a long day of traveling & sight-seeing, so Kayla and I went straight to the restaurant to order some dinner before turning in for the night. I should be used to it by now, but I always seem to be surprised that when we go to order something off the menu, they are usually out of it. I really wish they would just tell us beforehand what they had available, rather than show us a menu where most of the items aren’t even available. I finally settled on a salad and some fruit salad; which took almost an hour to prepare because they had to go to the market to get the fruit! I felt a little bad, but the waiter said it was fine and no trouble to go to the market for fruit. It was definitely worth the wait because the fruit salad was delicious and it was nice to know that it was fresh.
We started off bright & early Friday morning at 8:15 – which is actually earlier than Bongani told us to be ready (which is an abnormal occurrence for us here in Malawi, usually we are waiting around at least 15-30 minutes after the time we are given to meet or start off going somewhere). We did a lot more walking so that we saved on transport costs; other than the mid-90 degree weather, it was a beautiful day and we enjoyed walking through the city. As you can see in my pictures on Facebook (hopefully they’ve uploaded alright), we saw the statute of their first president and a memorial tower for the soldiers who fought in both WWI and WWII. From there, we went to Capitol Hill (which is named for our Capitol Hill in Washington, DC) and saw the various government offices, including the president’s office in the center. As we left Capitol Hill, we came to the memorial burial site for the first president of Malawi. There was a guide working there who gave us some background, which was interesting to know. This first president, Hastings Kamuzu Banda, had declared himself ‘Life President’ of Malawi and was the president from 1966-1993 (give or take a few years at the end). From our trip last year, I had remembered hearing only negative things about this president because he was a dictator and did not like opposition. But, from our visit to his statue and memorial burial site, you would have thought he was a great president. He is known as the ‘Founder and Father of Malawi’ because he helped it to gain its independence in 1964. His four principles for the foundation of Malawi were unity, loyalty, obedience and discipline; which sound nice at first, until you read more about what he did to make sure the people stayed obedient and loyal to him. I was glad for the history from the guide, but I am definitely intrigued to research more about Kamuzu Banda and what his presidency really looked like during his time in office.
Enough about history – now it’s time to tell you about the most fun part of our morning… Kayla and I got to visit our US Embassy! Woot! J For some reason, we were both really excited to go visit the Embassy and see what we could see. We had to sign into a book just to go to the front building, which also had us sign in a book and turn in all electronics before entering. We didn’t have a specific reason to go in, so the guard called the Consular Office to make sure we could enter. We are used to seeing pictures of the current Malawi president in every school and store that we enter; we were happy to walk into the US Embassy and see our president’s picture hanging on the wall.
They escorted us to the Consular Office and it was nice to be in familiar surroundings. There were leather couches and magazines set out in a little waiting area, a computer for public use in the corner, restrooms and a water cooler. I did ask the Consular about the issue with my Visa and he said I would have to apply for it as they said (which didn’t surprise me). We got to see our constitution, a picture of George Washington and other ‘US’ items that helped us feel a little more connected to our homes in the US. It was really nice – the only thing that threw us off was the Consular’s accent. He spoke English, but definitely had a foreign accent (not just Southern, Brooklyn or Pittsburghese, but ‘non-American’ accent). That made us both a little sad at first, but he was very nice and seemed genuinely interested in helping us with anything we needed. We didn’t stay long because Bongani had to wait outside for us.
After the Embassy, we went to the Civic Center Complex, which had a variety of government offices, college buildings, library, clothing stores and eateries. We got to go into the library and that was the most awkward I think we’ve felt since we’ve been in Malawi. Everyone, and I mean everyone, that was inside the library stared at us as we walked through. And I don’t mean the quick glance-up when someone walks in a room, but a full on ‘I’ll-keep-staring-at-you-even-when-you-see-me-staring-at-you’ stare. Thankfully, we didn’t stay long and we went to an outdoor eatery to take a break before going to a Wildlife Sanctuary.
When we first sat down, Kayla and I thought we were just resting before walking some more, but that wasn’t the case. Bongani got up and said, “I am coming” (which really means that he is going and he’ll be coming back; a phrase that used to confuse us when we first heard it because they always use it when they are leaving) and he walked away. He was gone for almost 30 minutes – long enough for Kayla and I to wonder if we had been abandoned or not. It also didn’t help that we’ve been watching the series ‘24’ recently and seen people getting kidnapped & sold, etc. We had a few different conspiracy theories in our heads, but then Bongani returned, as he had said and he brought one of the other youth leaders from church, Anthony, with him. We felt a lot better having Bongani back and knowing we had not been forgotten or abandoned. Monica also ended up joining us and we had lunch there (it turned out to be a longer break than either of us thought).
Monica dropped us off at the Wildlife Center before returning to work and we took about a 30 minute walking tour of the sanctuary area. We didn’t see any big animals, but there was one crocodile barely peeking out of the water, some monkeys playing in & around the trees and various birds as well. Oh yeah, remember it is still high 90s and it was about 2 in the afternoon – so our walk was nice & hot. J
That stop was the last on our journey for the day, which we were all 3 glad for; now we just had the adventure of taking the minibus(es) home to the lodge.
We had to take a minibus to get to the ‘minibus depot’ area in order to find a minibus that was going to Area 18 and could drop us at our lodge.
When we got into the minibus to go home, we had to wait a few minutes for it to fill up, and it certainly was full. I wish I had taken a picture so you could better understand, but I’ll try to describe it. Imagine a vehicle the size of a minivan, but instead of 2 rows of seats, there are 3. Now imagine that there are 4 people sitting in each of those 3 rows and 3 people sitting up front (one of which is the driver). That’s right, we fit (just barely) 15 people in one minibus. There was also a random animal that someone had with them. We couldn’t see it, but every now and then we heard some noises coming from one of the seats near the front (we were in the back). It sounded like it could’ve been a chicken, but possibly also a small puppy; I know those animals don’t really sound similar, but it was really hard to tell.